Hand-Tied Extensions
Are you interested in extensions, but not sure what they are or how you’d maintain them at home? Or, do you currently have extensions but you’re overwhelmed with home care? Say no more! I hope to clarify any of your questions in this guide!
Hand-tied extensions are a wonderful option for women who are experiencing lack of thickness, length or volume; Maybe you even deal with all three! There are so many variables that cause women to experience these issues: hormone imbalances, nutrient deficiencies, auto immune diseases, pregnancy + postpartum, age, medications, genetics… I could go on and on, but they shouldn’t hold you back from having the hair of your dreams (I do of course recommend anyone experiencing these issues discuss these concerns with their doctor).
What even are hand-tied extensions anyway? Hand-tied extensions refer to a type of extension weft which come in various lengths, the most common lengths are 14”, 18” and 22”. Hand-tied extension wefts are sewn into your natural hair using a beaded track and nylon string allowing the wefts to be secured to your head. Depending on how many rows you need to match your hair’s density and your desired look, the amount of wefts that are bundled together on each track vary for each person. Someone with fine hair may need 1 row with 5 wefts, but someone with very thick hair may need 3 rows with 5 wefts on each row.
Many people interested in getting extensions ask me, “but don’t they damage your hair?” The answer is actually both yes and no, depending on who installs your extensions and how it is done. The stylist you select to install extensions and the training, certifications and experience they may or may not have in an extension installation method, can make or break your experience. It is SO important to ask your stylist what method they are certified in. This can be exactly like asking your plastic surgeon if they’re board certified; with both a board certified surgeon and extension specialists, you want to make sure they’re trained in that area, have knowledge in performing those surgeries/services, have the patient/client’s best interest at heart & are ethical in their work so that the end result gives the patient/client the most healthy result; in this case their hair.
I have seen horror stories of people going to a stylist that is uncertified and in turn, they have had tension alopecia (which can most often not be reversed/cured after the hair follicles have been damaged). So, moral of the story - you can find someone to do things cheaper, but there is definitely a risk that goes into seeing someone who doesn’t promote the method they use and has little to no experience or is not certified. If you are inquiring a stylist about extensions, ASK if they are certified in a method. ASK what method they use. ASK how long they’ve been doing extensions. After getting this information, do your research. Most good extension methods have websites or an instagram page that explain what their method is. Most common methods are NBR, IBE, Grace Hand Tied Method, Luna Method, Bellami, and Harper and Ellis. I’m certified in the Grace Hand Tied Method and have been certified for three years and have had great success with this method for clients while maintaining the health of their hair. Quality extensions and experienced stylists are incredibly worth investing your money into. Sure, investing in a good stylist can be expensive, but I’d rather select someone who has the experience and knowledge over someone who watched a YouTube video on how to install extensions any day!
How much does getting hand-tied extensions cost with me? It really depends on each individual’s natural hair length, their density and their desired goals. Here’s an estimate per row if someone were to install 18” extensions while having below-the-shoulder length hair, fine-medium density desiring length:
*NOTE: This does not include any color services!
1 row: $125 install + $100(x5 wefts) = $625 plus NM sales tax
2 rows: $250 install + $100(x5 1st row) + $100(x5 2nd row) = $1250 plus NM sales tax
3 rows: $375 install + $100(5 1st row) + $100(x5 2nd row) + $100(x4 3rd row) = $1775 plus NM sales tax
- I do recommend to all of my clients to purchase new hair between 6-10 months. As the extensions I use are 100% human remy hair by Harper and Ellis, they have been chemically treated to give a wide array of color options for stylists to chose from. With being chemically treated, they lack the moisture and oils from our scalps that keep our natural hair healthy.
Now that you have an idea of what hand-tied extensions are, how important it is to select a stylist that is certified and knows what they’re doing, and how much a proper installation could potentially cost you - let’s get into the care that would be required for keeping your extensions looking beautiful and healthy. Following these steps are crucial in maintaining your extensions at home; I do not recommend extensions to someone who is not willing to invest their time and care into their extensions. After all, beautiful hair starts at the salon, but what you do at home is what gives you beautiful results in between your move-up appointments!
WASHING & BRUSHING
- Avoid overwashing your hair – try washing once or twice a week. You can do top washes on the top section of your hair avoiding the extensions to allow for “clean” hair!
- Brush your hair in sections separating each row before getting into the shower to avoid tangling or matting. Always hold the top of the row while brushing to reduce the risk of your extensions slipping with brushing.
- Only use professional shampoo and conditioner recommended by your stylist to prolong longevity of extensions and hair color. Thoroughly cleanse the shampoo out of your hair and in between extensions.
- Apply conditioner ONLY to the mids & ends of extensions. Thoroughly rinse in between wefts as well as completely rinse any excess conditioner making sure there is no left over shampoo or conditioner at the top of the extensions where hair is compressed together.
- Avoid hair masks with high protein products, coconut oil and moroccan oils as these products will cause protein buildup on the scalp and change the color of the extensions, adding warmth to the hair (especially blondes). Always ask your stylist before using something new on your extensions!
- When you’re done showering, squeeze your hair dry (don’t rub!) and hydrate your hair with a leave-in conditioner. I recommend wrapping your hair gently in a microfiber towel to help soak up any excess water.
- Use a detangler/heat protectant after washing & use a hair oil everyday to ensure nourishment.
- When brushing wet extensions, section each row apart and pinch the section of your hair you’re detangling like a ponytail and brush starting with the bottom section of hair and moving up, again always holding the top of the row.
STYLING
- ALWAYS use a leave-in conditioner/detangler before brushing through your hair wet: this allows for the brush to glide through the extensions without having to add excess tension to the extensions causing the row to slip or breakage. ALWAYS use heat protectant when styling your hair: place it on your hands first then run it through the ends or use a spray to apply to your hair to keep it hydrated and nourished, avoiding the root.
- Always blow-dry your extensions dry right after sweating or washing. Air drying your extensions can cause a swelling at the top of the wefts that can cause looping, matting & can shorten the life of your extensions by causing the extension hair to shed out of the sewn weft (shedding extensions cannot be fixed, and new hair will need to be purchased).
- Rough dry your hair with your hands to get the majority of the water out. When your hair is about 85% dry, you can use a round brush to help smooth it out.
- If you are in a rush and don’t have time to blow-dry/style your extensions, ALWAYS blow-dry the top of the rows 100% dry & the roots of your hair that lays on each row 100% dry before letting the remaining hair air-dry.
- It’s extremely important to brush through your hair multiple times a day to avoid matting and knots.
- Brush each row individually, holding the top of the row starting mid way and making your way to the top of the row.
SLEEPING
- Never go to sleep with wet hair! This will cause damage, matting and mold can form. Yes, MOLD. I recommend clients choosing the weekend to wash their hair so they can take the time to blow-dry, style and avoid any issues that can occur with being a rush!
- Put your hair in a loose braid, scrunchie, or silk turban while you sleep to keep your extensions healthy.
- Use a satin pillowcase to preserve the longevity of your extensions. My favorite silk pillow case is the Standard Solid Silk Pillowcase - Casaluna™ located at Target! I always wash my pillowcase once a week, leaving it to hang dry.
SWIMMING (POOL & OCEAN)
- Yes you can get your extensions wet! Only use mineral sunscreen as Avobenzone in most common sunscreen can discolor your extensions resulting in a pinkish tone.
- Wet your hair and apply a leave-in conditioner or conditioner before getting into the pool or ocean. There are often minerals found in bodies of water that can react poorly with your extensions, causing dryness and discoloration. It’s best to avoid getting them wet in these bodies of water!
- If you are going to be getting your hair wet, avoid letting the extensions stay wet for long periods of time to avoid swelling which will then result in matting.
- Be sure to rinse and blow-dry your hair immediately after swimming and follow the styling routine above to ensure the best results!
MAINTENANCE APPOINTMENTS
- The recommended time frame in between appointments to maintain your extensions is between 6-8 weeks. As everyone’s preferences are different, 7 weeks is typically a sweet spot for most people. Move-ups include the removal of the extensions, coloring or toning the extensions if necessary, washing, blow-drying and reinstalling the row(s).
If you’ve made it this far and you’re still interested in receiving this wonderful service, schedule a consultation through my website - I offer video consultations and in person consultations! I can’t wait to meet you and give you the hair of your dreams!